Left or Right? - I am using the right product to treat my acne?

LEFT OR RIGHT

Am I using the right product?

No matter which of the 6-7 acne you are dealing with improper treatment can lead to skin sensitivity. In my professional opinion there are some products that are better equip to handle the job over others. For example those that use benzoyl peroxide to treat their acne. Some have reported burning when trying to use a moisturizer afterwards.

I would try salicylic acid instead of benzoyl peroxide to treat acne issues personally. BP is drying and has bactericidal affects yes, but salicylic acid exfoliates causing skin cells to shed easier. It opens clogged pores and neutralizes bacteria within, preventing pores from clogging up again. It constricts pore diameter allowing new cell growth. Not to mention that it can help cure so many other things. Salicylic acid (from the studies I have read provided by the FDA and NCBI) isn't known to cause photosensitivity (sensitivity to the sun) but in fact is photoprotective.

If you decide to stick with BP then maybe moved to a 2.5% concentration and gradually work your way up. The skin should develop tolerance in about a week.

There are other options as well. It might be worth it to look into Micellar cleanser. It is said to cleans the skin without compromising the skins PH.

I think it's important to note that because the body doesn't naturally produce water, only oil, over stripping the skin (dehydrating) can lead to making the acne worse. Whenever you feel that "tight" feeling after cleansing it's a potentially bad thing. It's your skins way of saying that it needs help. It will do the only thing it can...produce oil to try to remedy it. A toner will help to reset the skins PH disturbed by the cleanser/exfoliator. So I recommend a toner for after cleansing. Not to mention that it will also pick up any remnant traces of cleanser left on the skin. Toner is also a great mid-day refresher. A sort of pick-me-up.

As for the moisturizer make sure it doesn't have anything else in it like an AHA (glycolic acid) as it could aid in skin sensitivity and that it's oil free. Preferably geared towards hydration (because no matter your skin type or age we could all use hydration). To an extent, it is a normal reaction when putting moisturizer on extremely dry skin that it can burn. It should dissipate though. It reminds me of when you move from extreme climates such as cold to hot. The skin burns but tapers off as the skin takes the time to adjust.

I hope this helps anyone out there that might have this problem. If you have any questions at all, feel free to contact me.

*image taken from dermalinstitute website

http://www.dermalinstitute.com/us/news/tag/sensitive-skin/

The Key to a Great Shellac Manicure

The wonderful world of Shellac 

In my time as an esthetician I have had the chance to work a lot with Shellac. It truly is an amazing product and it really does work. Like with everything though, there are catches. Many hear of shellac and go "Yeah right! 14 days without chipping? How good is that for your nails?". Honestly, I don't think it's any more harmful than regular polish. Okay so what's the deal then?

Get your shellac done with legit shellac brands. Do your research before giving your hands over to anyone.

I say this because I have had one too many clients come to me saying that they went to a nail salon (as a pose to a spa) to have their shellac done. When it came time to remove it so that way we could re-do it, the stuff didn't budge. That's because what was on their nails...wasn't shellac. What was on their nails was gel colour.

What Exactly Is Shellac Anyways?

Okay cue record scratch right? I can hear it now. "What's the difference between a gel colour and a shellac?"

a) A gel colour is the colouring that goes over top of your fake nails. You know when they glue on the tip and build a thick layer of clear gel on top of that? Right so, that stuff needs to be buffed off. Usually during your gel fill. They use a drummel to do this. They can do it because there is lot of thick gel beneath the colour without risk of touching your actual nail bed.

b) Okay with me so far? Okay so a shellac is a hybrid between a gel and a regular polish. To remove it you soak it off in 100% acetone. The stuff literally curls and flakes off in about 10 minutes tops. No drummel necessary. It is far more gentle on the fingers by far. And don't be put off by the dehydration that occurs from it. At the end of your manicure a good oil and moisturizing treatment is given. At least there should be.

Okay so then, why do these nail places tell you that it's shellac when really it's not? Simple. They want your money. Like wise, if you got a shellac done and go to a nail shop and they try to remove your shellac with a drummel...DO NOT LET THEM DO THIS. A drummel shouldn't touch your natural nails. IT WILL RUIN YOUR NAILS. So, like I said. Do your research. At the bottom I will list the more common brands of Shellac.

How To Get The Most Out Of Your Shellac

I am going to list the various ways that you can ensure that your shellac manicure last the 2 weeks advertised or longer. When I do my shellacs for clients, 98% of them have their shellac last for about the 3 week mark.

1. It is in my Pro opinion that no manicure regular or shellac should include soaking of the nails. It allows the nails to absorb moisture. Therefore the polish to chip. So don't let them soak your nails. 

2. Make sure that your manicurist gets all the excess skin off of your nail plate. Not properly cleaning the nail of debris can cause not only unsightly bumps in the polish, but pockets with which the polish can chip. Like wise they should be taking a fine white buffer block to your nails to rough the texture up. Too smooth of a nail plate and the shellac polish will have a harder time adhering. 

3. Make sure they are wiping your nails with the blue scrub fresh or rubbing alcohol. Dehydrating the nails helps the polish to adhere much better. Plus it'll get rid of any nail dust and debris before polishing. Also make sure that they are holding off the oil and moisture treatment until the very end.

4. Make sure your application is thin! This is true with all polishes and not just shellac. It will make a significant difference in preventing early chipping. 

5. It is a must that they 'cap' the free edge of your nail with both the second coat of colour as well as the top coat. It's huge in ensuring that your shellac polish lasts. 

6. DO NOT pick at your polish. If your a picker, shellac isn't for you.

Picking shellac, whether it's because it's starting to chip or because you've got a bad habit, WILL aid in ruining your nails. When you pick you take fine surface layers of your nail with it. This leads to your nails becoming thin and weak. You will notice splitting, breaking, and peeling of your natural nails. At this point it's not the shellac. It's you.

Having said that there are some people who simply cannot hold a shellac manicure. I believe this is due to a person having naturally more oily nail beds or naturally more moist hands. Those people that tend to have sweaty palms nearly constantly is a good example. Try it out though because dehydration is a process for shellac. If your manicurist does it right, there's hope for you yet.

7. Be mindful of the things you do on a daily basis. If you have a job that is physically demanding on your hands, if your touching a lot of chemicals, scrubbing with sos pads, constantly in water, your shellac may make the 2 week mark.

Salon quality Gel Brands

Essie, Orly, NYC, and Gelish are also some other brands but whether you will find them in professional salons, I can't be certain. Remember that "shellac" is a brand by CND. When CND says: shellac - they mean Gel. That is why other brands don't use the term 'shellac'. They should in my opinion because if you go up to a manicurist and ask for a 'gel manicure' they most likely will give you the fake nails version. Which, isn't what you want. So to be safe just refer to this type of manicure as a shellac manicure.

Esthetic Talk~ Weak & Brittle Nails

Weak & Brittle Nails

Causes

 

One of the reoccurring complaints I hear about as an esthetician is about weak and brittle nails. Nails that split, crack, break. I am always asked: Why does this happen to me?

There are actually several reasons why this happens. Here is a list of a few common reasons.
-Constant exposure to water
-Aging
-Malnutrition/lack of vitamins
-Trauma to the nail
-Fungus
-Long Term Nail polish use
-Chemical exposure (Can also cause nail discoloration)
-Over buffing of the natural nail plate

There is also a list of medical reasons why one could have weak and brittle nails. It wouldn't hurt to speak to your doctor to rule out any medical conditions, especially if it's accompanied by discoloration. Aside from the health aspect (as to the cause of this problem) I would be apt to look towards that last point. Over buffing of the natural nail plate. For those of you that like to wear acrylic or gel nails, I hear a lot of things like "Oh don't get them done. They made my nails sooo soft and weak." I think it's very very important to know that improper removal or filling of your nail enhancement is often the cause for this.

Another common question and issue I see is clients that want to know why they have certain markings on their nails. Nails that have pitting all over them is a classic sign of psoriasis of the nail. Leukonychia striata (horizontal white streaks) can be caused by a few things but usually resolve on their own. In fact many types of skin diseases can cause abnormal nail plates. Ridges are often caused by aging & trauma. Possibilities also include vitamin deficiency and underlining medical conditions.

I hope this helps some of you out there. Now I know what you are thinking. How can I fix them? I will talk about that in another post.

Oily skin Conclusion

 The End

This concludes our segment on the oily skin type!!! That was HUGE I know. That sure was a lot of information but you know, it's important. To young adults unto adults there are many things within the blog posts that you might not have known before. Either way it will help you to spend your money more wisely and put it towards things that will benefit you! We all want our money to work for us right? Young adults can go about their lives with more confidence and have the proper tools to battle their acne issues. Now that you understand your skin a bit better and know what is happening to you, you now have the proper knowledge to go about choosing the proper products and makeup for your skin now too!

After the skin care is all complete I will be moving onto makeup. It will be there that I will continue to use the skin care knowledge and transition it into makeup. If you are wondering how they directly relate to one another allow me to give you a small example.

Did you know that some people have oily skin so much to the point where it oxidizes their foundation? This is where they purchase a foundation that is their color and after about an hour or two after wearing it, it turns two shades darker! Not only does the person need to purchase a foundation that is two shades lighter but they constantly have to blot their faces throughout the day.

Did you know that there are wicked face primers out there that prevent these things from happening? Well there is! So there is a lot to look forward to even still. So what section will we be looking at next? Our next segment will be on the Combination skin type. So stay tuned!

I hope you have enjoyed your learning experience and will stick with me until the end.

Sincerely
Pro Vocation

Product Knowledge: Oily/Acneic Skin - Scrubs

Scrubs for the acneic skin types

 A lot of people get lost when it comes to scrubs and I feel it is one of the most misused products. I feel it is because people are unsure of how much is good to use, how often if it should be used, and often purchase a facial scrub that is not the best choice for their skin type. This is why it is important to find out what your skin type is. Purchasing products for yourself, no matter where from, will get easier. There are so many different types of scrubs out there and I think a good majority of people are under the assumption that a scrub ought to be gritty. The truth of the matter is that, that is simply not true.

Types of Exfoliants

 Exfoliators are broken down into two categories. A manual exfoliant and a chemical exfoliant.

 First let us look at the most common of the two. The manual exfoliant. This is simply exfoliators that have that grit feeling to it. Some of the manual exfoliants have smaller, softer micro beads. Those are usually geared towards sensitive skin.

The chemical exfoliants usually contain AHA's (Alpha Hydroxy Acid's). My ultimate favorite exfoliator is Guinot's biological peeling radiance gel. It is a Spa Grade exfoliant. It goes on thick like a honey at first. You keep moving in circular motions until the gel liquifies! It will turn into an oil like slip. The longer it takes in certain area's the more dehydration and dead skin buildup there is. This exfoliator is amazing.

 Below is an example of a OTC brand of chemical exfoliant.  St. Ives Timeless skin with gentle alpha hydroxy acid in it.

 

 So which one is best then?

 But what is the best scrub for someone with acneic skin? That is the question I am sure you asking yourself. Scrubs that contain shells, nuts, and so forth are generally too abrasive (Gritty). The skin is already red and aggravated! So be weary of using anything with a grit. It is in my pro opinion that those with acneic skin ought to try an exfoliant in a foaming or gel form.

Think about it like this: If you had a sore on your body would you scrub at it with anything rough? No. Treat your acne like a sore. You want something smooth and soothing going over that. Be good to your skin.

Here's an example of a foaming scrub that is good for acneic skin. It is gentle on the skin. Remember just because it doesn't feel gritty, doesn't mean that it isn't doing it's job.

Spa Grade Versus Department Store

When it comes to which one to invest in I believe that it is best to go with the spa grade. Sure you could buy something cheaper but you will end up going through more product to achieve your results. In the end you could wind up spending more money.

The spa grade brands are stronger. For example: An exfoliant that contains an AHA is the best type of exfoliator but department store brands are only allowed to offer products that contain up to 10% in it. Since an AHA is essentially a chemical peel, trained estheticians can use AHA's up to 20 & 30% in a spa setting. It's serious stuff.

Spa Grade products can offer products that are stronger in their ingredients. So, what it will boil down to is the right bang for your buck. Is it important to you that you have quicker results to which you will pay to get? Or are you okay taking the longer road and possibly saving yourself some dollars?

The other thing that one has to consider is safety. Yes the AHA's will give you amazing results but if you misuse that product you could harm yourself. (As is with everything you purchase). When using ANY AHA product ( especially if used in the morning ) you MUST apply liberal sun screen!!!! AHA's can make your skin sensitive to the sun so don't jerk around with this stuff. Take your skin care seriously. 

Having said that...most OTC (over the counter) brands wont be very concentrated. It goes back to what I was saying before regarding results. It will take more time to see results with a department store product than something spa grade. It can be a good thing though, a very gentle process of obtaining the same result for a lot less money. It just means that you will have to be diligent. So ultimately that choice will be left to you to make for yourself.

Please note: When using ANY scrub use with a gentle hand! Please don't scrub away at yourself. You don't want to put further harm to your skin.

Until next time, enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.

Product knowledge: Oily/Acneic skin - Moisturizures

I know what you are thinking. You are thinking: I have oily skin! Why would I ever need to put moisture onto my face!?

 Remember what I had mentioned in my previous blogs about stripping the skin and how an oily skin can still lack hydration? Just because you have oily skin does not mean that you do not need to put hydration back into your skin. Using the right one well help to keep your skin hydrated and protected. It offers a nice slip underneath your makeup as well and it will help to prevent fine lines and wrinkles (from dehydration). Many skin care centers/spa's try to avoid using the term "Moisturizer" actually. It is because a lot of people with oily skin associate moisture with oil. Instead skin care specialist use the term "Day protection". People need to disassociate the negative connotations connected between oil and moisture.

Remember an oily skin can lack water but has an over production of oil.

A good moisturizer that is drug store brand would once again be Neutrogenas oil free, spf 35 moisturizer.

It informs you on the bottle: "Non-comedogenic" This is also something VERY important you want to see on your products. This is the professional term for "wont clog pores", "doesn't cause acne". This one offers UVA and UVB protection! Neutrogena also has one in SPF 15.

For those of you with oily skin you are going to want to go with something that says "Oil free" no matter which product you decided to try.

Dermalogica's Active Moist is a great example of a spa quality brand that is geared towards the oily skin type ( and combination skin ). It is light weight, and is formulated without artificial fragrances and colors. This moisturizer also helps to improve the skins texture and has a sheer, silky consistency that dries quite quick. This product is every bit worth the money.

I need to mention quickly other options for hydration for oily skin. This is where you will appreciate spa grade products because they are more in depth and focus on very specific skin concerns. For example:

Dermalogica's web site describes this product as follows:

"An oil-free, feather-light lotion to help hydrate while reducing shine. Non-greasy formula soothes irritated skin and helps eliminate congestion while preventing future breakouts. Microspheres help absorb oil on the skin's surface, leaving skin with an all-day matte finish. Formulated without artificial fragrances and colors."

 Just keep in mind the things I have mentioned previously. Drying out your skin too much can cause flaking and or more acne. If this happens to you, know that the problem may not be with the product. It most likely is a case of misuse/over use.

So remember: Oil Free and non-comedogenic
Those are you two most important traits you will want to look out for when choosing your moisturizers. I hope this has helped you a little. If you have any questions please feel free to leave a comment and don't forget to support by subscribing!

Next we will talk about scrubs for the Oily/acneic skin!
Until next time, enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.

Product Knowledge: Oily/Acneic skin - Toner

Toner's For The Acneic Skin Type

What is a Toner and what does it do?

What are toners? Some may not have even heard of them. Others may have but don't really know what they are for. First allow me to tell you what they are NOT. Toners are not a waste of money! Toner removes any left over product (cleansers and exfoliators) that you might have missed. They also help to hydrate a little as well. Most importantly a toner helps to balance your skins PH that is your Acid/alkaline ratio. When washing your face you strip your skin and you throw off the skins PH. You want your skin to come back to a nice even balance after cleaning, or exfoliating. A toner can be used even throughout the day for refreshment. Lastly, a toner can help to set your makeup.

Benefits of a Toner

Many toners out there now a days also come with other wonderful benefits. For example this toner by Garnier is for "Normal to Combination" skin and comes from their skin naturals line. As you can see it offers pro-vitamin B5, ( panthoenic acid ) which has natural broad abilities to moisturize, heal, soothe, and regenerate the skin. As you can see on the bottle it also tells you that it contains grape water. This is what helps to brighten and clarify the skins tone! So toners like this one is jam packed with great skin benefits.

Which one is the right one?

The best advice I can give is to purchase an alcohol free toner no matter your skin type. Every skin care line has something for acneic skin. Check out G.M.Collins oxygen puractive+ treating mist.

However you ought to be careful. Those who are treating their skin for acne should be weary about using every single product geared for Acneic skin. Why? Because you do not want to over strip your skin. G.M. Collins products for oily skin are for normal to oily which aims to balance perfectly. A line like this allows you to use more of what you need safely. It is worth checking into your local spa's for.

What are the possible complications to over stripping the skin?

Let's say you wash your face with a product that contains salicylic acid in it. You strip your PH. Then every other product has an acne blasting agent in it. Your skin is so stripped it panics having lost it's moisture. So, it goes: Quick! Produce more oil!
Next thing you know your face is breaking out even worse. The cycle and battle ensues. My advice is to break up your acneic regiment with a hydration toner and an oil free moisturizer to help balance things out.

Remember: There isn't a skin type out there that cannot benefit from hydration (water). 

Conclusion

There is a toner for every skin type. Please invest in one. I promise you, you will only love yourself more for doing it. Next time we will continue on with our product knowledge for the oily acneic skin type and take a quick look at Moisturizers. If you have any questions don't hesitate to leave a comment. Or if you just want to talk, share, leave a comment! Show some love and subscribe.

Until next time, enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.

Fact: Drying out your skin on a constant will lead to premature wrinkles.
           Those with oily skin type often age with no/less wrinkles. (providing that they do not smoke, drink alcohol and coffee, bake in the sun, excessively)

For Our Men (updated 12/8/13)

For Our Lovely Men

Men don't have different structures than women do. They simply have more productive sebaceous glands than women. Men have worse acne than women due to it and because of their thick facial hair. Men's lines were created partially so that the packaging was masculine to make men feel more comfortable and of course to cater to their specific skin issues. Surveys have shown that most men wouldn't go into a department store and purchase something that looked too feminine for themselves. It is vital for men to get the proper skin care and so more simple packaging was created.

Go Figure

In the men's line you might find other types of ingredients from the females versions but they still do the same thing. One thing that is different are the softening agents that are in it. They aim to help with the thick facial hair. If you remember the diagram of the hair follicle you will know what I am referring to. The sebum has a harder time coming to the surface and even when it does it often is trapped. It turns into a blackhead in most cases or even papule. And don't forget men can get dehydrated too! The skin isn't any different just because they are (you are) a man.

So if you are a man and don't give a crap about the look of the packaging of the products you are buying, then great. Just remember there are products out there formulated with you men in mind. While using your counterparts products will do you just fine, you could be getting top notch care if you were using the proper products.

There is something other than packaging and ingredients that I have noticed about our lovely men when it comes to skin care. Men gravitate towards particular scents. It is funny how they can like a scent specifically for women but on themselves? It will be different.
You'll hear a man say: Floral is a nice scent...on a woman. I don't want to walk around the office smelling like roses!

 Many men seem to prefer a citrus scent. The scents chosen are either very fresh and clean (so citrus like lemon, lime, orange) or spicey/woodsy in scent. I am not saying girls don't like these scents either of course because we do! But a man clearly has a specific preference and they shouldn't go ignored. After all we want our men to take care of their skin too! ( and buy their own stuff already lol )

Let's Hear It For The Boys

You know what I love about male clientele in the skin care industry? They are so easy going! They aren't picky about their products or routine. They want only what they feel they need to know, clear and concise. They want it straight forward, uncomplicated, A to C and all in one neat package. You tell them: You use this first, this second and then this last.
They go: Great. I'll take it. Wrap it up.

That isn't necessarily the best response because they should be asking a little more questions but they don't usually. Now maybe they are like that because they are in a hell-fire hurry or they are uncomfortable? Maybe they aren't really listening? I can't be for certain but it is in my experience that when it comes to taking care of themselves, as long as the information that they are receiving makes perfect sense, they are listening. Men are so different from some women who want to swap, switch, question every detail, and sometimes act as though they are going to marry their products. Personally, I think it's the damned cutest thing when a male starts getting curious and asking all sorts of questions. I love it. Love it to bits. I wish more men would walk through the spa doors.

When I was in school I was doing research on the male consumers of this industry. I found that males actually can spend more money than females when they got serious about their appearance. They are also more loyal customers. I appreciate the straight forward, uncomplicated approach and way of thinking but that is just me. When Men find something they like and are happy with it, they don't usually question it. They stick to it and for that I love you!

So don't be afraid! To any male that might read this part I encourage you to think about your own skin and skin care needs. Long gone is the day that women think its "gay" for a male to be in a spa, taking care of themselves, or buying skin care. Now a days it's like seeing a man buy cologne. Pretty common.

Just for you

So what is my biggest tip for men when it comes to skin care? It's definitely all about the exfoliation. You need to help your follicles push up that sebum as much as possible and not allowing skin to grow over or clog up the follicle will really help. If you are not comfortable applying a day protection cream just yet, be it because of texture or because you think it's sissy, then please use a toner. Toners are usually a spray and pat kind of deal so it's very easy to use and quick. Men still need to find an even balance for their skin and a toner delivers the same benefits as it does for a woman. Hydration, balancing the skin's PH, and removing any left over product from cleansing and or exfoliating.

The professional skin care lines have also created products just for men after realizing that there was a market for it. Men were interested. I know men were secretly using their counterparts products, don't lie! Lol. Since men need a slightly different care system they answered the call. Now skin care lines even have products for shaving. So men, there is definitely some fantastic stuff out there for you because the term "Love the skin you are in" doesn't apply to just females.

Some Ideas

Here is just an example of a professional line out there that do carry products just for men.

First up is Dermalogica. Dermalogica has combined skin care and shaving into one system. This is known as the "shave system" and in it you have: Pre-shave guard, Daily clean scrub, invigorating shave gel, soothing shave cream, Daily defense block spf 15, Post shave balm, and last the Close shave oil.

They also have kits available. The products are smaller and are perfect for travel or trial. These kits come with: Pre-shave guard, daily clean scrub, soothing shave cream, post shave balm and daily defense block spf 15.

Dermalogica even has the "clean bar". There are some men who are just so traditional, they refuse to use anything specific for their face and body. They want to continue to use good old soap. If this is you, then there's something for you too! A soap-free, acid-balanced cleanser in a convenient bar form. Perfect for the gym or travel, it is formulated without artificial fragrances and colors.
* This cleansing bar can be used for both men and women so it's convenient and cost effective*

The best thing is that Men can also use products from the rest of Dermalogica's line and incorporate it into their regiment. For more please check out their website: dermalogica


Conclusion

Next time we will continue on with our product knowledge for the oily acneic skin type and take a quick look at Toners. Incredibly important in my books. If you have any questions don't hesitate to leave a comment. Or if you just want to talk, share, leave a comment! Show some love and subscribe.

Until next time, enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.
 

PK: Oily/Acneic Skin- Cleansers

When it rains...it pours. My netbooks adapter is shot and I have to replace it so updates will be sketchy. It's alright, I will do my best to ensure that each update is good and worth the wait. So...I wasn't kidding when I said the oily/acneic skin type section was huge huh!? Well we are continuing with PK (Product Knowledge) for the oily skin type. By now you should be quite well informed and should understand why I recommend some of the products listed in this section. If you don't, that's okay. It will be explained. So...let's battle on.

Product Knowledge - Oily Skin
Choosing the right cleansers for Acneic skin.

When walking down the beauty isle, it's like a nightmare! So many brands! Who to trust!? What's effective? What's junk? Which one is for me?!? Companies capitalize on our weakness, fears, and our desperation. A lot of it is truly misleading and garbage. No face wash is going to be able to "turn back the hands of time" or truly "prevent" wrinkles. If you can stop someone from unwise life style choices with a facial cleaner...okay then maybe. Further more companies count on the consumer being aloof about the ingredients used in the product. Until recently, companies didn't expect the average consumer to be to knowledgeable either. You've determined that you have the oily skin type, but how do you know what is the right facial cleanser for an oily skin type anyways? Is it enough to just read the package and as long as it says "For oily skin" then it's good?

Cleansers -

If you have acne ( and I am not talking the odd blemish here and there) your going to want a facial cleaner that contains Salicylic Acid in it. Not much is needed at all by the way! So don't worry if the percentage is quite low (3% is enough). Salicylic acid is a BHA ( Beta Hydroxy acid ) and is oil soluble. This means that it can penetrate into pores through sebum to exfoliate. It is the only BHA.

For those with acne issues your not going to want a foam or a gel because it is mild and wont aggravate. Salicylic Acid is drying, so you will have to watch and make sure that you don't get TOO dried out. That's not good either. Depending on your type of acne it will depend if you need all your products to contain this ingredient (right down to your makeup) or not. It's something that you will have to play around with.

Remember any time you feel that tight and dry feeling after a wash, it means you've dehydrated your skin too much. You must balance it. Your toner will help with this. No matter your skin type everything is about balance and always about hydration. I have said it before but I shall say it again: just because you have oily skin doesn't mean you don't need hydration because skin lacking oil is different than skin lacking water. People with an oily skin type can lack water.

While I actually do not have an issue with acne, I have used St. Ives Green Tea cleaner. I made the mistake in using a product for oily skin thinking I was an oily skin type when really, I am combination/dehydrated! (this was before going to school) Bit of a mess for my skin that was. I was so convinced that I needed products for oily skin that I even used a foundation that has salicylic acid in it! I also used a concealer specifically to cover and treat blemishes that contains it as well. I know first hand what happens to your skin, how it looks, feels, and its reactions to being over stripped. Combination skin could use this providing that they are balancing their skin with other products, OR it can be used as a spot treatment! That's right! Just dab a little of this on and leave it to work it's magic.

This product is awesome and that's why it makes my list.

The one thing I wish to stress to anyone looking to purchase products for their acneic skin and it is this: Make sure it says the words "Salicylic Acid" on the bottle. It isn't enough for a bottle to say "oil free".
All that tells you is that there isn't any oils in the product. Not that it will actually treat your existing acne problems. So if it doesn't have those words on it then it isn't going to treat your existing acne problems.

I am sure Nivea has lines with Salicylic acid in it I know Olay has it and many other labels as well. The Brand you decide to go with should be chosen from personal preference. Later I will get into CGP (Consumer Grade products) products Versus PSC (Professional skin care) products for you but for now, let's just stick to the Consumer Grade products. They are more obtainable and most familiar to us and is easiest to identify with.

 Next time we will continue on with our product knowledge for the oily acneic skin type and take a quick look at something for men and Toners. Which is incredibly important in my books. If you have any questions don't hesitate to leave a comment. Or if you just want to talk, share, leave a comment! Show some love and subscribe.

Until next time, enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.
 

Acne Prevention Pt 3 - The extreme

You have done it all. Nothing...I mean NOTHING you have tried has helped. You are simply covered in acne or they are so huge you are scared and they hurt. Now it is time to get down right serious. Most will try to seek out a Chemical peel of some sort, a heavy form of exfoliation. However, it isn't recommend for those with very aggressive acne. Remember the options I am informing you about here are for those with extreme cases. PLEASE BE WARNED THE IMAGES IN THIS SECTION MAY BE DISTURBING TO SOME. If you have a weak stomach then refrain from viewing. All images within this section are of aggressive acne.

- Call in the dermatologist. Some need to visit a dermatologist and have serious extractions done because their face looks PEPPERED with blackheads.

 - Most of the time PATIENTS will be put on a medicine like Tretinoin (Retin A) or Isotretinoin (Accutane) which is the acidic form of Vitamin A. (By the way Retin A can be used for other things too other than Acne.) It does thin the skin however and so these people will be very sensitive and told to stay out of the sun, to not sun tan, nothing abrasive on the skin what-so-ever, steaming or extractions is a no-no. It is because redness happens, it's very very drying, and you get sensitive. Waxing is another Huge No-no for people on this medication ( which is a cream or a gel ). The stuff is so strong that those who wish to become pregnant have to come off of it. They should be off of it for a minimum of one month before trying to become pregnant and stay off of it during their pregnancy. It is known to give birth defects. To know more please check out this link HERE . There is also the worry of both premature aging (the drying will cause serious dehydration which will cause wrinkles prematurely) and the more serious of the bunch...skin cancer (due to the thinning of the skin and exposure to sunlight). So it can cure one problem only to leave you with others. Some might read this and go: Why would anyone ever risk it?
If you have spent years with painful or disfiguring acne... it might be worth it to you.

- ACNE for some, can get so huge that injections of Cortizone is needed to be given in order to destroy it.  For some, acne can be utterly disfiguring and leave horrible scars. All of this is beyond any esthetician's aid. At this point We esthetician's will/should turn you over to a dermatologist. To read more on Cortizone injections please click HERE .

- When it comes to dealing with acne scars...that depends on the severity of the scars and which type of scars the individual has that will determine the solutions. From localized surgery to dermabrasions. Not Microdermabraison (non-surgical)...dermabrasion...the complete buffing of the first upper to mid layers of your face! Oooh yes. If you are that curious...by all means...to youtube you can go! Now a days they have the option to do such procedures via laser as well. It is still invasive and there will be down time.

 Those are the most popular types of treatments, off the top of my head, that people with severe acne will have. I feel incredibly bad for anyone with acne this bad or worse. My heart goes out to them truly.

Test your Brain

How much do you think you know about acne? Were you listening? Ready to take a true or false quiz? Click the link below and find out!

ACNE QUIZ

Phew! How was that for make up posts!? Lol. I hope you have all learned so much by now! By the time you are ready to get into make-up you will all have lovely canvases to work with! Remember that when dealing with acne to have patience. Remember to be loving and gentle to your skin, your face. Remember my analogy: Your face is like a tomato, soft and delicate so treat it as such.

Next we will get into proper products for the oily skin type! Finally right? The part you are desperately wanting to hear about? Well it is coming up next. If you have any questions don't hesitate to leave a comment. Or if you just want to talk, share, leave a comment! Show some love and subscribe.

Until next time...Enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.
 

Acne Prevention Pt 2 - The next level

With the basic acne prevention aside (though rest assured very helpful and should be used in conjunction with the type of skin care you use and or other methods of acne prevention) let us move further, beyond that.

THE NEXT LEVEL

You are faithful to all of the basic advice given and have given your skin a month to adjust and still...still you are having Acne troubles. However, you are not ready to set foot into a dermatologist office because frankly, it scares you. Surely...there has to be something else?! Right?...actually yes. There is. At this stage we take the level of seriousness up a small notch. At this stage you seek out a little more expertise. Now you are ready to speak to an esthetician. What can we do for you? We can offer you non invasive procedures. Meaning no injections, medications topical or other wise, we are not going to buff your face off or make you bleed.

1) We estheticians can perform extractions the proper way! With proper products to help.
2) We can offer you red and blue light therapy! To learn more check out this link HERE .
3) We can offer you high frequency. High frequency emits a current known as the Galvanic current via glass electrodes that pass into the skin. You can see Ozone gases, Argon and Neon, in the glass electrodes in Purple and Orange colors! High frequency helps to kill harmful bacteria, stimulate circulation and helps product penetration. It closes the pores after extractions and for those with normal skin type it tones and tightens the skin as well as stimulates natural collagen production. It is truly the best suggestion I can make for those with acne. Amazing results can be achieved with a few sessions of 3-5 minutes on this machine.

Contraindication for this machine are: High blood pressure, Metalic implants, Pregnancy, Pacemaker, Seizures.

So...how can you get a piece of this amazing machine? Find yourself a good spa that offers the high frequency machine as a part of their facials. Simple as that. Most places will have specific facials for treating Acne. When the above fails (combined with the proper products for oily or dehydrated skin) or if your acne is HUGE, I would seek out the care of a reputable dermatologist.

Having said that...I mean it. I have had a woman in my chair before who said she went to a dermatologist who just threw her on Accutane! She said that he didn't even examine her skin. When in my chair I determined, in my best, non-medical expertise, that she had incredibly dehydrated skin. She had been using all products for oily skin (very drying). So you see...you have to keep in mind that just because people wear a shiny badge...it doesn't necessarily mean anything. Don't just take my word for it either! Think. Research. Get a second and third opinion before making a final decision such as going on medications or partaking in dramatic procedures. You will know which is the right answer for you when you find it. Trust in your instincts a little. Okay?

Other Treatments

Many skin care lines offer other procedures like peels, masks, and other results driven options that are non-invasive, non-surgical. G.M. Collins offers a lot of good ones and many of them can be altered for the skin type. Example the Algomask can have products from their Puracne Oxygen line switched into it. Their dermal renewal peel can help, and they have many others. It is something to look into. Something to consider if you feel you need more advanced treatments but don't wish to be thrown onto medications as serious as accutaine/ Retin A. The point is to inform you that you DO have lots of options for your acenic concerns.

Also consider stepping up the seriousness of your products. You might wish to look into Gm. Collins or even skinceuticals as that skin care line can be found mostly in clinical settings.

Conclusion

In part three of Acne Prevention we will take a look at those with extreme acne and a few of the things that can be done about it.

Acne Prevention Pt 1 - The Basics (updated 12/7/13)

Acne Prevention

I am sure this is the stuff you REALLY want to know! Your in luck. I am going to help you even further. I am going to start with the smallest of things ( that can make a HUGE difference ) and go on up to the more expensive procedures or crazy ones.  So, let us talk about mild to normal Acne. There are some basic tips that most of you probably wouldn't think to do. The things listed below are things that we as esthetician's or anyone for that matter, can suggest to you to try. Consider the following:

Have you tried:

1) Make sure your pillow cases are frequently washed! Your face lies on them every night. You deposit oil and skin cells, maybe perspire in the night! Failure to do so...well it's bacteria that will transfer right back onto your skin.

2) Ladies...throw out your makeup sponges and replace them! Once again you dab at your face mixing foundation and oil onto your sponge. It sits exposed to the air, bacteria grows and then the next time you go to use it...BAM. Direct transfer.

Wash your make up brushes or use disposables! You can use a nice mild soap and water. Make sure your brushes are left to hang over the skins edge to drain. Failure to do so could ruin your brushes. You can spray them with 70% rubbing alcohol to aid in the disinfecting process. There are actual "Make up brush cleansers" you can purchase too if you prefer.

3) Lay off the chocolate? Wuuut!? You kidding? Chocolate and soda doesn't cause acne. Acne is produced from your Sebum glands. What you eat doesn't effect your face. However, detoxing can. Therefore...dark chocolate (70% and over) has some great detoxing properties! In fact drinking or eating detoxifying fruits is good for EVERYONE and benefits your entire body!

4) Swim! chlorine is drying and is known to keep off the acne in people with oily skin. Just remember that you will still need to moisturize! You can purchase moisturizers geared to oily skin! These will be oily free and very light weight.

5) TONER! If it is one thing that I could recommend everyone to get into the habit of using is a toner. A toner not only removes left over cleansers but it balances the skins PH (Acidic levels). This helps your skin to stay clear and balanced, fresh and it feels amazing! It helps to clear the skin of free radicals and you can get ones that help to brighten up the skin! ( Prevents dull skin ).

6) Wash and moisturize your face with the right products. This is so crucial. Why the right products? Because using products geared towards say a dry skin on an oily skin type is going to aggravate it more.

7) Ladies, wear the right makeup for you skin! You will be so surprised that choosing and wearing makeup is actually hard. I will explain more on that later as well.

8 ) Wash off all make up, hair spray, gels, pomades, at the end of your day! Also for those with long hair don't let it get oily. It will transfer onto you face and give you acne (by means of bacteria transfer). Not only is washing off your makeup important to preventing acne but it's important to prevent premature aging!

9) Avoid stress and drink lots of water! Avoiding stress...well it's ridiculous right? To an extent yes. I mean if there is something that happens in your life try to stop and think: Is this even worth it for me to get all worked up over? That is what is meant by "avoiding" it. Drinking lots of water is also another form of detoxing the body and the skin! Be careful to not over do the water thing though. You can get quite sick and even die from too much water consumption. Just saying, don't go crazy with the cheese whiz ya know? One of the biggest things I want to mention here: ONLY 3% OF THE WATER YOU INTAKE GOES TO YOUR SKIN. So do not think: "Oh I couldn't have oily/dehydrated skin...I drink tons of water" because you so can and many do.

10) Avoid touching or suffocating your face. Either by your hands, or doing what i do, sitting on your chin while typing to her friends on Fb, Skype and such >.>

In part two we will get into slightly more serious methods of Acne treatments. But until then check out this product from Dermalogica.

Precleanse encapsulates oil prepping it for much better removal. Your cleanser can then reach the follicles and pores to remove trapped debris and pollution. Think of it as double cleansing your hair at the salon. You get the best, deepest cleanse. Preclease is soft enough for all skin types but is the most beneficial for those with oily skin.

A word on Extractions (updated 12/6/13)

I want to take the moment to speak about extractions. I have mentioned this word a few times already. Please do not use a comedo extractor tool unless you are trained to use one. Why? Because you can damage your skin using them incorrectly.

Extracting should be done gently and with patience. If you extract your blackheads with your finger nails that leave crescent moon shapes all over your face...please stop. I cannot stress to everyone just how delicate your face really is. Doing this stresses and damages the other layers of your skin which can lead to bruising, blood, scars, brown spots. If you see blood it means a blood vessel has been ruptured. While your not going to die from this, it isn't a great thing either. Try to extract without seeing blood.

Please have someone extract for you OR if your going to do yourself use the toilet paper or Q-tip method. ALL EXTRACTIONS ARE EASIER TO DO ONCE THE FACE HAS BEEN STEAMED! What this means is the best time to do it is right after a nice warm/hot shower. This is because the heat as relaxed and opened the pores better. When you go to a spa to get extractions done, they do it after applying steam (vaporized water) to your face. ( Or a hot towel if your claustrophobic)
For the Q-tip method simply take 2 Q-tips and try to squeeze out your blackhead/whitehead. Use 2 Q-tips per blackhead/whitehead.

For the toilet paper method simple wrap a little TP around your index fingers (or whichever fingers you use to extract with) to wiggle and work your blackheads out. I prefer this method most times. It works great on the nose area too! Just be careful to not over-do it. You don't want to scab and flake the skin. When finished extracting PLEASE USE A TONER. You have caused sebum to surface by squeezing, your skin is annoyed and most likely red. Please calm it and cleanse the sebum off without having to rewash and strip your skin too much. A toner will re-balance your skin and love you for it.

Welcome to Dermalogica's scaling fluid! I do not believe that this is available for retail but if you go to a spa that carries this line or does facials with this line, you can have this. It is designed to soften the skin and dissolve sebum. This is applied with a brush to create a light foam. It is left on the skin for approximately 5-10 minutes while being steamed. When it comes time to extract, blackheads come out with great ease. It's great because it is less painful for the client to endure as extractions are not usually a relaxing procedure.

Acne Continuation Pt 3 - Types

Hey there! I know it has been quite some time since I have made a post. A lot of crazy things have happened to me in the last month and I have been adjusting to it. Either way, I wouldn't just abandon my blog.

I want to take the time to reiterate for those of you who might have missed it before. I am giving you the skin care knowledge before allowing you to see the sections on make-up and so forth first because it is important. I believe that great make-up begins with great skin. Using make-up to cover up your acne just makes it stand out more. I want you all to have great skin. I want you all to really get the best out of your make-up!

Even for you males out there that might happen upon this blog, sure not everything here will be geared towards you but there is none-the-less something here for you. Everyone can benefit from great skin and that is why my skin care section must be first and foremost. Having said that, let's continue onward!

Types of Acne

It is important to know that Acne isn't as generalized as you might think. There are many types of acne, many causes for each type and like wise specific treatments for each. There are two categories of Acneic Lessions:

1. Non-inflammatory - this governs Microcomedo, open comedo and closed comedo's
2. Inflammatory Lessions - Papule, pustule, nodule and cyst.

Tip: Did you know that there are 6 other types of acne? They are:

1. Acne Mechanica or frictional acne - Acne triggered by heat, friction or rubbing of the skin, constant pressure

2. Acne Medicamentosa - Drug(medication) induced acne

3. Chloracne - Acne created by exposure to certain chemicals and or compounds

4. (Acne) Rosacea - Sometimes called 'adult acne' and is characterized by a reddened face that never fades, thick bumpy skin with dilated capillaries, itchy or stinging bumps (acne), and flares up randomly with various triggers such as: spicy foods, the consumption of alcohol, etc.

5. Acne Cosmetica - Cosmetics that contain certain oils, chemicals, ingredients that will clog your pores and breed acne.

6. Perioral Dermatitis - A skin disorder that causes red bumps around the mouth and smile folds around your mouth and cheeks. The exact cause is unknown but many say that creams with steroids in them may be a cause.

Fact: Your sebaceous glands secret sebum (oil) to help push dead skin cells that line the walls of the hair follicle, to the surface of the skin through your pores.

Let's take a look at the two types of acne a little more in depth. What does it mean when I say "Non-inflammatory"? or "Microcomedo"? What does it mean to have either of these two categories?

Non- inflammatory= Not angered, not red, sore, burning, agitated or swollen.

Micocomedo = A tiny plug of oil and dead cells inside the hair follicle. They are microscopic in size, not inflamed and can become a problem if it reaches the next stage.

Open Comedo = Blackhead. A mixture of oil and dead cells line the hair follicle that forms a plug. As mention previously the tip goes black because it's been oxidized by the air. These can be squeezed out because it has an opening or pore. It's important to note that blackheads will continue to form even after extractions. Why? Because your going to continue to produce sebum and shed dead skin cells. This process can be helped to lesson the amount of blackheads of course, but the point is, is that your not going to get no blackheads unless you have dry skin.

Closed comedo = whitehead. It is a plug of oil that has no opening on the surface of the skin. The dead skin cells have grown over the pore. These need to be dealt with delicately actually. In a sense it is good to extract these because they can turn into papules easily. 

Inflammatory= To be angered, agitated, red, swollen, burning,

1. Papule = Red, firm, raised lesion up to 1 cm in size. Often sore to the touch. These ruptured inside the skin! The area becomes inflamed. Your capillaries dilate and bring in your white blood cells to attack all the debris so...NEVER squeeze and pick at these. Leave them alone. Spot treat with a little salicylic acid and allow your natural defenses to take care of the rest.

2. Pustule = Pus is formed from dead white blood cells, bacteria, sebum and dead tissue. You may squeeze if very gently providing it is no longer inflamed.

3. Nodule = An elevated lesion located DEEP in the dermis (skin). It's a giant papule. It feels firm when you touch it and your skin can be moved over it. It's cause by a large break in the follicle wall where oil, bacteria and dead cells leak into the dermis. Never squeeze it.

4. Cyst = next stage of a nodule. Infections been present for a while, nodule becomes soft. Pus has formed inside and is slightly liquid. Doctors often need to drain these or inject with an anti-inflammatory agent such as cortisone.

Next time I will discuss Acne Prevention. Remember, if you have any questions don't hesitate to leave a comment. Or if you just want to talk, share, leave a comment! Show some love and subscribe.

Until next time...Enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.
 

A New York Minute for teens

I just wanted to take a moment to take the chance to address those of you who either know or are going through the first stages of teen acne. Most of you will say: No matter what I do...it wont go away! It's so bad! Break outs everywhere! 

So this little section is for you guys specifically. As mentioned in today's blog post, hormones are probably the number one contributing factor to our problems. For those in the 13-16 age range it can be a nightmare. Hell...it is for anyone at any age right? To a fair degree...there isn't anything you can do.

Before you throw yourself to the ground kicking and rolling in dying despair and agony, you CAN however take preventative measures. Here is a list of things you can do to ensure that you don't trigger or worsen your acne.

1. Keep an eye on the things you eat. Make sure your easy on the dairy and fatty foods such as your meats.

2. Wash your pillow case often. Dead skin cells and oil and then bacteria build up on them. Your just spreading it all back onto your face.

3. For you girls, wash your makeup brushes at least once a month and after each use spray with 70% alcohol to clean them! This also ensures your brushes are bacteria free. Each time you touch your face, transferring oils between brush and makeup and then putting it on your face? See the method to my madness here? If you use those sponges to do your makeup...discard after the third time using it.

4. When washing your face peeps...go right up into the hair lines around the perimeter of your face! For you girls that use hair products...you already know what I am going to say. Easy spot for acne to start.

5. Wash your face with the right products. Please be very careful that your not over drying your face. Like mentioned before it can make your condition worse if your over drying your skin! If you wipe your face with rubbing alcohol...for the love of all that's good in this world...STOP. I don't care if you think its cleaning the bacteria and you have no pimples, and you've been doing it for years, and your grandmama use to do it. Don't. It is too harsh and in the long run it will show in your later years.

6. Be mindful of how much you sit your face on your hands. I have a problem with this one. I like to veg out on my tummy, stuff my pillow under me and use it to rest my chin upon. =.=
Or those who simply rest the side of their faces on the palms of their hands. The sebum can't get out so...it gets trapped inside the hair follicles and then BAM ... acne.

7. Ladies...wash that makeup off at night. No explanations needed. No arguing. Just do it. Too lazy? Invest in facial wipes. The three in one's are pretty good.

I think that's the major tips really. Follow those seven and you should be good. Naturally if your face has exploded with all sorts of acne then you need to see a doctor. Medication may be needed. Okay so...that's it, that's all! Until next time! -waves-

Acne Continued pt 2 - Causes

What causes acne?

There are 5 major causes of Acne Vulgaris

1. Hormonal/chemical & puberty changes
2. Hyper secretion ( an over production ) of sebum (oil) in the sebaceous glands
3. Bacteria ( NOT DIRT ) inside the hair follicle
4. Blockage of the hair follicle
5. Type of hair follicle

1. Hormonal Changes - Male hormones called androgens, secreted by both males and females, causes an enlargement of sebaceous glands. males secrete more androgens than females which is why their acne tends to be worse.

2. Hyper Secretion - Sebaceous glands are found most predominantly your scalp and face, chest and back. few glands are on our extremities, accept for the palms of your hands and soles of your feet there are none.

Some people produce a lot of sebum and some need actual medication to control this. This is where seeking out a dermatologist comes into play or your family doctor. We estheticians can treat mild to normal clients with certain facial treatments and products. How do you know if you need to seek more medical help?
When you have tried everything and yet you are covered with pimples, pustules and or blackheads.

3. Bacteria can form from the pollutants in the air and the makeup that you are not washing off your face before bed. Don't lie! You do it, done it, still do it. I know because so do I!

4. Blockage of the hair follicle - By means of sebum, dead skin cells that cause the follicle walls to burst and thus a papule is formed.For a visual look to my post titled "For those who'd like to know" and look at the diagram of the hair follicle.

5. Type of hair follicle - There are two types of hair follicles. Vellus and Terminal. Vellus hair on the face are those very "fine" soft little hairs. Well they are not strong enough to push the oil out of the hair follicle during a certain phase of the hairs growth (Anagen phase). It is because of this these types of hairs develop the most issues with acne.

Terminal hairs would be your eye lashes, your eye brows, head hair, and for males their mustaches and beards. These have an easier time pushing out the oils because they are larger. They push the dead cells to the surface of the skin more easily. On average there are less issues with acne in those areas. ( Providing that the proper measures for skin hygiene.)

Additives

This is the section I like to call additives. There are two additives in this category and they are: Genetics and diet.

When I say genetics I do not mean: Oh my father had bad acne so now I do too.
I mean genetics as if in something wrong in the hypothalamus, pituitary portion of the brain. The part responsible for hormones. Something happening in the Endocrine system through generations and can affect the body. As a result, horrible acne/skin conditions arise from underlying conditions such as over active hair growth.

When I talk about diet it is VERY important to know that you CANNOT get acne from soda or chocolate. So when I say diet, I mean consuming meats that are high in hormones and steroids, high fats. Diet can worsen pre-existing acne or stimulate new outbreaks of it. The Diet is linked closely to hormones here.

Next time I will get into the different types of Acne. Remember, if you have any questions don't hesitate to leave a comment. Or if you just want to talk, share, leave a comment! Show some love and subscribe.

Until next time...Enjoy life, Love, liberty, and always yourself.

Oily Skin/Acne

 The Oily Skin Type

*Graphic Images are spared from this segment to be suitable for all ages and preferences*

As promised we are going to get into the problematic skin type of oily acneic skin. This segment is rather large as there is a lot to cover but I promise if you stick with me, it will be worth it. Besides...you know you want to stick with me. -wink-

What is Acne exactly?

Acne is a skin Condition properly known as Acne Vulgaris ( "teenage acne" ) and is the biggest concern amongst people next to anti-aging. Adults can still develop acne vulgaris as well also known as "Adult Acne". It's because researchers have found that there are various things that can cause acne! Women well into their 40's still battle acne or acne breakouts.There are quite a few things that can cause Acne. This is why I am going to begin with those of you who have oily/combination skin/acne.

Fact: "Vulgaris" is Latin for "common"

I mentioned this briefly before but I want to elaborate on this. Black heads are NOT dirt filled pores! Someone who has black heads doesn't mean that they have a dirty face or don't wash their face enough! You could scrub till the cows come home, they are still going to be there and come back. On that note though, over scrubbing your face and being too abrasive can causing damage and more breeding ground for bacteria and more acne. Those with acne ought to be very careful about which exfoliants they choose to use. After all we do not wish to upset already aggravated skin now would we? So now that I told you that blackheads are not dirt, I am sure the inevitable is being asked.

What it is a blackhead?

A blackhead is oxidized sebum (oil). The oxygen is what gives them their black tips because it is the part that is exposed, also known as an Open Comedo (plural comedones). The black tip is not a "root". Blackheads are harder in texture and is hardened oil aka Sebum. Sebum is produced by your sebaceous glands in your dermis layer (talking about your face here). 

Next time I am going to continue on with acneic skin and we will look at the causes of acne. Do be sure to subscribe to my blog and share it with others! I think more people ought to be more educated on skin care. It will make life a little easier! Until then ...

Enjoy life, love, liberty and always yourself!

Determining your skin type

WHAT'S YOUR TYPE?

How Do I know what skin type I have?

That is rather hard to answer. Usually a questionaire needs to be filled out in order to determine it or seeking out your esthetician so he or she can determine it. I can give you a few guide lines though. Generally speaking, there are 8 questions you can ask yourself or your esthetician can ask, if you/they are unsure of your skin type.

1. How many times a day do you wish you could wash your face?
2. Do you break out on your chest and back?
3. Does your makeup fade or change color throughout the day?
4. Do you tan easily?
5. Do you use face powder? If so how many times a day do you use it?
6. Do you buy products for oily, dry, or combination hair? ( which do you buy )
7. Does your face look shiny when you wake up in the morning?
8. At about what time during the day does your face look shiny after washing it in the morning?

These questions rule out just how oily you are or are not. Your esthetician will/should ask you a few more based upon the answers to these 8. Those questions will help determine your skin type further. This is why it is better to speak to a professional about it. Still, the purpose of sharing this with you here is to help you be able to buy products for your home care needs.

Skin Types

Oily skin: If you wash before bed and wake up shiny. Like wise if you wash in the morning and you have shiny skin by noon (that isn't attributed to working out or strenuous activity), If you find you need to blot your face or reapply facial powders a lot, If you have lots of pimples and black heads, Your face is shiny all over, enlarged pores all over (not just your nose), dull color, chances are very high your an oily skin type.

Note: Teens be aware - Determining your skin type is the hardest for you because there is a lot going on inside of you chemically (hormones). Please be cautious in choosing a skin care regiment. Once the hormones balance you will find that your skin issues will balance out too. It will be then that you will be able to see what skin type you truly possess.

Combination skin: Oily T zone so, forehead, nose, chin. Pimples and black heads in oily area's only. Enlarege pores in T-zone area. Cheek area is normal to dry. Chances are you have a combination skin type.
* There are two classes of combination skin: Combination to oily, and Combination to dry *

Dry Skin: If your skin is itchy, flaky, patchy, no pimples, blackheads/white heads or visible pores, may be rough feeling to the touch. Chances are your skin is of the dry type. To have dry skin means that you are lacking oil. Those with dry skin tend to have prominent expression lines and wrinkle a lot more than say someone with an oily complexion. The signs for dehydrated skin is very similar to dry skin. It is possible to be dry and dehydrated ( lacking water and oil ). There is product out there specifically for this skin type and condition. The bottles will say: Dry/dehydrated.

Normal Skin: Essentially perfect skin. You don't have any issues with anything really, you don't react to products and can wear anything. Your face is always supple and perfectly balanced.



Conclusion

No matter your skin type everyone can benefit from having more hydration (water) in their skin.
Next blog post I am going to get into one of the two major skin concerns that people fuss about. Oily skin types aka...acne! It is a large segment and no doubt there will be many blog posts about it to come, stay posted.

Enjoy, Life, Love, Liberty and always yourself.

Spotlight Special! Skin Conditions - Sensitive/Sensitized Skin

Condition and Sensitive Skin

We are going to take a moment to just look at the special category of the sensitive skin condition. It really does deserve a segment all on it's own. So then, let's continue on with the next bit continuing off of the last segment, we talked a little about the sensitive skin category. My question to you is this: Do you think that sensitive skin is a skin type? Or a skin Condition?

When speaking about sensitive skin, know that there are two distinct differences. There is: Sensitive skin ~ Skin you are born with.
Sensitized skin ~ Compromised skin ie. skin that is effected by external, life style, or medicine.

The Sensitized category is primarily the things I had started to speak about when talking about the 'sensitive skin category' in the last segment. When I say 'Sensitive skin', please know that I am referring to the skin type/condition as a whole. (unless stated other wise) The truth of the matter is whether or not you have sensitive or sensitized skin, the symptoms are pretty much the same. Now you are probably saying to yourself: I think I might have sensitive/sensitized skin. How do I know though?

If you are unsure, there are seven questions that can be asked to determine whether or not you have sensitive/sensitized skin. They are as follows:

1. Have you ever had an unpleasant reaction to a skin care product? If so what happened?
2. Do you burn easily in the sun?
3. is your skin irritated during the winter?
4. do you have any allergies? If so list them
5. Do natural fibers such as wool irritate your skin?
6. is your skin irritated by fragrance in cosmetics or by wearing a fragrance?
7. do you have a tendency to blush easily? Go bright red?

Remember sensitized (compromised) skin, it is NOT permanent. These seven above questions can help you determine if you have sensitive skin and whether you are born with it or not, is sort of irrelevant. Why? because either way you will be using products for sensitive skin and staying away from that in which makes you sensitive! Your heritage plays a huge determining factor as to whether or not you are born with sensitive skin. It is really just better to speak with a skin care professional about it in the long run.

Dehydration can also lead to sensitized skin, but I should think that, that makes a little sense when you think about why and how that would be. Think about a dried up sponge and then scorching it with heat (the sun) or dumping harsh chemicals on it like alcohol. Think of your face as though it were a tomato. When you wash, exfoliate, and dry your face, when you do extractions on yourself...pretend that your face is a tomato. Your face should be treated with care and a certain amount of delicacy.

Sensitive or Allergic?

There is one more thing that I want to mention before I wrap this portion up. That is the subject of the reactivity of sensitive skin or to anyone who thinks they might be allergic to something. If you put something on your face (because we are strictly speaking about the face here) and it starts to itch/burn/or sting...stop and feel. Wait for a few moments. Are the symptoms getting worse? More intense? Then it is an allergic reaction. I mean if you have hives and blister like bumps...I should also think that is an obvious allergic reaction.

However, if the symptoms seem to die down...it's more than likely a reaction due to dehydration. I know myself, sometimes when I use products that are meant to give you deep hydration it stings a little. It goes away though. Then there are times when I will use something on my eye's and it itches and just get's worse. So remember that should that ever happen to you.

Conclusion 

Next time I am going to talk more about determining the other skin types! Later we will talk about products for the sensitive skin type as well. Don't forget to subscribe and follow my blog so that you can get the updates as we talk further!

Enjoy, Life, Love, Liberty and always yourself.

Skin Conditions

What is a skin condition?

A skin condition is essentially an effect and can be controlled. The conditions I refer to here are things like: Dehydration, pigmentation be it hyper or hypo, vitiligo, rosacea and so forth. There are more serious Conditions/diseases of course. Some can be treated by people such as an esthetician who is more versed in skin care; others need a dermatologist/Doctor and require medication in order to control or fix. If you really wish to look into it, here is a list of a few good ones http://dermatology.about.com/od/skindiseases/u/Conditions.htm

What Causes common skin conditions?

The sun/frequent tanning, harsh weather, poor nutrition, prolonged illness, Stress, menstruation, severe neglect of the skin, Oil glands might be enlarged in say the T-zone area, and medications, are all things that can give you a skin condition. The sensitive category has it's own separate causes.

Those with sensitive skin may have both internal and or external aggravators.
Internal:
- Anything that causes Vasodialation ( blood vessels expand ) such as Caffeine, alcohol, spicy foods.
External:
- Environmental: Cold, wind, pollution
- Heat such as sauna's & hot baths
- Over stimulation from say massages or touching/rubbing at the face
- Harsh products such as: Exfolliants (scrubs), alcohols, AHA's ( Alpha hydroxy acid ), soaps, & fragrances.

Unlike the other three categories, A person with sensitive skin doesn't always mean it's a permanent thing. There have been common characteristics in those with sensitive skin. Those that are of English, Irish decent or anyone with fair skin, red (or blond) hair, freckles, have a tendency to be sensitive.

Conclusion

Next time I am going to talk more about the condition of the sensitive skin type! Don't forget to subscribe and follow my blog so that you can get the updates as we talk further!

Enjoy, Life, Love, Liberty and always yourself.